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I need an engine builders help please

 
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Rod44
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 5:26 pm    Post subject: I need an engine builders help please Reply with quote

Hi,
I am new here, but the post said this place is full of top notch engine builders right down to newbies, and I think I qualify as a newby. I have a Triumph Spitfire, and I tore the engine down and set all the main caps out on a piece of plywood on my desk along with the conrods in order because I don't have a stamp punch set. The plywood overhung the desk and my dog was in the garage and put her paws up on the desk and everything went on the floor. How am I going to be able to know which main caps go where and which are the number 1-4 conrods? They are not labeled. Sad Please help. I don't even have a machinist bar to check for straightness.

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squeeezer
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it will keep ya up all night if you dont align bore it

hind sight is alway 20/20

and this is one area i dont f@#$k with
the only place i will set main caps is in their registers
because i have too many main caps kicking around my garage

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disturbthepeace1
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, you might have to have them line bored but you can see if you can find the correct placement if you use a bore gauge to measure them with.

Also look at the inside of the journals and see if there are any stains or markings made by the bearings that can be matched to the block. Get out a magnifying glass if you have to. Fortunatly you only have 4 leaving three that you mixed up assuming that the rear main is diff.

Good luck and measure them out before you assemble

Joe

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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:29 pm    Post subject: Re: I need an engine builders help please Reply with quote

Rod44 wrote:
Hi,
I am new here, but the post said this place is full of top notch engine builders right down to newbies, and I think I qualify as a newby. I have a Triumph Spitfire, and I tore the engine down and set all the main caps out on a piece of plywood on my desk along with the conrods in order because I don't have a stamp punch set. The plywood overhung the desk and my dog was in the garage and put her paws up on the desk and everything went on the floor. How am I going to be able to know which main caps go where and which are the number 1-4 conrods? They are not labeled. Sad Please help. I don't even have a machinist bar to check for straightness.


I would not be overly concerned with the rod sequence.

On the mains, you need to set them and check for round then swap and recheck until they are in the right register.
I think I see a 6pj on this.
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe types fast!!! Laughing
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clay
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2011 10:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A magnifying glass is your friend on this one. As previously mentioned there should be something that can clue you into the match. There should be some sort of honing scratches in the rods and the mains that you can line up. Stains, impressions made by the previous bearings, anything. When you put them together feel the parting line with your fingernail. There shouldn't be anything hanging over on either side. With patience and attention to detail you should be able to figure it out. Clay
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Rod44
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks you guys for all the insight. I sure hope I can figure it out. I have a super set of magnifying goggles for a jeweler. Maybe with that (and like you said Clay) a lot of patience, I might be able to figure it out. If I cannot, shouldn't a machinist be able to determine it by measuring concentricity and bore alignment?
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1 thing I have found is if there are any #'s or letters they will be in the same orientation. In other words they usually face forward.
I have never seen them face opposite directions.

If you have a set of calipers at the least, they will be helpful.
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As Clay said the finger nail gets you close also. 30 years ago I bought a set of rods and ended up using the nail method to get the caps correct. What a pain in the arse. Shocked
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Rod44
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wooohoooo I got it figured out!!! Wasn't as bad as I thought that it would be because there are only 3 mains on the 1500, the number 2 was labeled and as one person mentioned before the one that goes on the back was a little bit different. Getting the orientation right was a little tricky though. As you all said I had to check the machining marks and line them up. On closer inspection of the con-rods I found that someone (maybe the factory) used a regular punch to make dots or dimples on the rods. The number one had one dot punched into it, the number 2 had 2 dots etc. Thanks to all of you for your wisdom and time. This is an awesome site! I am gonna make a new post on some crank questions. Come give me some input!!!!!
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clay
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great! Glad you figured it out. Bet you'll watch that dog closer next time Laughing . Clay
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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I love dogs, but you don't need dog hairs under the bearings when it is time to reassemble the motor. Need to spend some quality time with pooch and give it a big soup bone to chew on far away from where you are working.

Big Dave (I have three shepards)
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jeep_406
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it worked out for you.
Numbering stamps are pretty cheap. If you are going to do engine work might be a good thing to have and always mark them before you disassemble.
I have a bench that is away from the work area that I tape paper towels to and then place parts and identify them by marking the towel. Takes a few additional minutes when taking things apart but everything is accounted for when putting it back together.

In my case engines may be apart for a considerable time. I do all my own assembly but, like Paul P, have a shop do the machining for me.
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