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sleeving head bolt holes
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 3:17 am    Post subject: sleeving head bolt holes Reply with quote

im in the process of porting the exhaust runners on my Ebrocks and need to sleeve three head bolt holes to get the nice uniform "D" shape i want. im planning on making my own on the lathe out of 316 stainless. they will be approximately .600" OD and .525" ID and pressed into the aluminum heads. my question is, how much interference fit will i need to keep them from moving or leaking ? there is no water in the area and they will not go all the way to the outside of the head. im going to leave a "step" in the bolt hole and press them in from underneath.
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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you saying the port broke into the bolt hole slightly?
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10sec.et
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, it will. im essentially copying a CNC design from one of the Olds vendors. i managed to get him to give me a pic for reference and the port looks like it cuts into the bolt hole about .015 or so. i know he sleeves them and would probably give me this info if i called however, ive already picked his brain enough for now.
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squeeezer
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

is stainless the best material for that????
with expansion on aluminum heads????

im not being fecisious im just asking

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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

squeeezer wrote:
is stainless the best material for that????
with expansion on aluminum heads????

im not being fecisious im just asking


Very good point!
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the stainless is fine. its the press fit thats the concern.
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My E.P.D. heads have exposed head studs in every exhaust port, and we left them exposed since water was not a factor for me either. Is there some other reason they have to be sleeved?
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knarley Darley wrote:
My E.P.D. heads have exposed head studs in every exhaust port, and we left them exposed since water was not a factor for me either. Is there some other reason they have to be sleeved?


i thought about leaving the holes open but one thing that concerns me with that is that one hole on each head will be cut into on both sides. im afraid that without sleeves for support, it may do some weird things when torqued down. i did actually call and bug Bill (BTR Performance) again. he said "as tight as you can get em". as i told Adam, im basically looking for a number so i dont find out that the sleeves are too big and have to re-chuck the stainless in the lathe just to cut off .001. i think i have settled on about .005.

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af2
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:


im afraid that without sleeves for support, it may do some weird things when torqued down.


Sleeves have nothing to help in the clamping department. They will simply plug the hole.

You are clamping from both sides and that is all, even with a sleeve.

Unless you cut a reciever (step) there is no way that sleeve is going to help in clamping.

Please don't take it wrong, I am trying to think and type at the same time. Rolling Eyes
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10sec.et
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

af2 wrote:
Unless you cut a reciever (step) there is no way that sleeve is going to help in clamping.



yes. a step will be left at the bottom of the hole and the sleeve cut flush on the top.

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af2
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
af2 wrote:
Unless you cut a reciever (step) there is no way that sleeve is going to help in clamping.



yes. a step will be left at the bottom of the hole and the sleeve cut flush on the top.



Nice!!! Cool
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Skunkworkx
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1968 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 10:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.005 is going to be tough to hold... most machinist will go +/- .005 from spec...and .005 is not much press IMO. But it's just to plug a hole and not really do anything else either. May be just fine ???
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Skunkworkx wrote:
.005 is going to be tough to hold... most machinist will go +/- .005 from spec...and .005 is not much press IMO. But it's just to plug a hole and not really do anything else either. May be just fine ???


Ya ever try to press .003? .005 is a bitch if you don't follow the rules. Shocked

We are talking 3"s press.
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Skunkworkx
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

af2 wrote:
Skunkworkx wrote:
.005 is going to be tough to hold... most machinist will go +/- .005 from spec...and .005 is not much press IMO. But it's just to plug a hole and not really do anything else either. May be just fine ???


Ya ever try to press .003? .005 is a bitch if you don't follow the rules. Shocked

We are talking 3"s press.

My bad... .0005 Rolling Eyes BTW I'm not a machinist as you can tell.

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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wont the sleeve be between the step and the head bolt and the deck anyway? which means it cant go anywhere. Be careful not to have it to tight or the head will crack. 002-003 should be enough I would think.
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