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Engine smoking heavily after rebuild... H E L P !!!
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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Watch it Paul. Centigrade is just a homo word for tempurature Shocked
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jeep_406
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 12:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adam,
I was thinking it was sucking oil from somewhere too but what's the chances that both engines would be doing it Head Bang

I don't know anything about these engines. Are the in-line 4 cylinders. Was thinking if they were v 6 engines and the heads were milled quite a bit and the intakes didn't fit right. . .well you know the rest.
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camelotr
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 2:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oldschool inline water cooled 4 cylinder pushrod engines.
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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 10, 2010 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also once your exhaust has been coated inside with oil, it will take quite a long time to burn that out after the problem is fixed. Maybe you were getting a false positive on the second engine???
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camelotr
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have done 500kms with the second engine, plus I have tried to clean the exhaust with filling it with petrol... still smoking and oil reappiered on the tail.
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have read this post probably a dozen times and can't really come up with much. Have you looked under the valve cover while it's running to see if you have too much oil whether it's a drainback issue or a lack of oil restiction from aftermarket parts. It really looks like you have done a good job of checking things and I wish I had a solution. It appears to be in a high vacuum situation that it burns oil - have you done a leak down test to get an idea of the piston / ring seal? I'm like everyone else, I don't think it could be head related since you have swapped heads and it's on two different engines. Were the engines bored at the same machine shop? Have they changed their honing procedure in any way from what you have had success in the past? Did you use a different ring type or brand than you have in the past? Do the oil rings spin freely in the grooves? The leakdown test and the other questions I have asked would mainly apply to the compression rings and not usually to oil rings but I'm trying to throw out some ideas. Clay
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camelotr
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks.

This machineshop has not done anything for me in the past. I had some problems with my old workshop, soo I decided to swap.

This new specialist was adviced to me by a friend who is restoring 911s and Rolls Royces. I though a man that can do a 911 RS, may be good enough to do a Mini...

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camelotr
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

... but maybe not.
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camelotr
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Although I still think hard on what could I do wrong...

I have not performed a leakdown test, but as there is soo much oil, that I am not quite sure it would produce any useable results...

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clay
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Have you asked the machinist to take a look at your parts when you disassembled the engines? The machinist we use is more than happy to help us solve a problem by looking at parts or whatever he can do. Just approach it in a manner where you make it clear you aren't accusing him of anything, you just would like to bounce ideas around and see if he can help. Could you take some pictures of the bores, pistons, head under the valve cover, and the crankcase ventelation system and anything else you think might help and post them. Maybe a picture will be worth a thousand words and one of us can see something. Clay
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camelotr
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 3:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For some reason I cannot upload pics.

I have posted some pics on another forum. If You please look at it.

http://pistonheads.co.uk/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=66&t=835560&mid=201476&i=0&nmt=Engine%20smoking%20badly%20after%20rebuild...%20HELP%20PLEASE!...&mid=201476

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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After looking at the pictures, I think pumaracing is right on track with your problem. In the 8th picture down you can see the boring bar marks that are still there in the bottom of the bore. Also in the 6th picture down, the top ring has shiny and black spots on it showing that something is definately off as it should have an even shiny finish all the way around - most likely the bore not being round for some reason. A guy brought me a small motorcycle engine in the past that had some of the same problem - not enough material left to hone the boring marks out and it ate the rings up very quickly. I now think your problem is in the bore as pumaracing says. Clay
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One more thing I saw, in the 5th picture down, it looks like there is a head gasket issue between the two center cylinders. Let us know how this whole thing comes out. Clay
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Paul P
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thinking about this a bit as well it is a difficult thing to diagnose remotely.

This might be a dumb question but are there any studs for the rocker arms that penetrate into the intake ports or exhaust ports? Oil could get sucked in from there.

Crank case vent plumbed into the intake that is not baffled correctly?

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camelotr
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 12, 2010 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The heads have been vacuum tested at 3 different machine shops - each giving a negative result. I must assume the heads are all ok.

The cylinder gasket burning is right - for economy reasons I have used the same gasket twice - thus it is not a surprice. But it was just beginning to get burned, no real pressure loss occured up to that point.

Now I have sent the block back to the machine shop that did the work to push the liners out and resleeve the cylinders. I have told them how they should bore the block, and what type of honing finish/and piston-bore gap I would like to see.

I hope the best. The boss at the workshop looks like an honest man. I trust in him and give them a second chance.

Many thanks to You to help me make this decision. I will keep You informed.

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