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Chevy H-beam rods *UPDATED W/PICS*
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lun40119 wrote:
If you would just build a Chevy and paint it orange, you could do it for less and go faster;)


if i did that, i couldnt make jokes about you guys buying your Chevy parts at WalMart Twisted Evil



Knarley Darley wrote:
I dont know if you are ordering custom length rods or not, but I have done it a bunch of times, and the price is the same, they just take a little while to have them made. Also keep in mind they usually make them .005 shorter than you order them, so I always add .005 to the length.


i didnt intend to order a custom rod length. with the 6" rods i have now, the piston is .021 in the hole. would there really be any benefit to ordering a longer rod ?

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af2 wrote:
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lun40119
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1967 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 12:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just order a Callies speed pac, I hear you can just bolt it together. No Machining involved............INSTANT 9'S
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lun40119 wrote:
Just order a Callies speed pac, I hear you can just bolt it together. No Machining involved............INSTANT 9'S

thats absurd. you have to bolt it together YOURSELF!!!! what a rip-off Rolling Eyes































seriously though, you Chevy guys should know by now that im just messin with ya Very Happy

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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

.021 in the hole or 0 isnt going to matter. It will just give you a little more piston to valve clearance and you wont have to worry about the piston rocking in the cylinder at TDC and smacking the head, which pinches the ring land and really makes the thing run bad.
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Knarley Darley wrote:
.021 in the hole or 0 isnt going to matter. It will just give you a little more piston to valve clearance and you wont have to worry about the piston rocking in the cylinder at TDC and smacking the head, which pinches the ring land and really makes the thing run bad.


my machinist is a big fan of 0-decking. he says it give a better quench. if 0-decking is a waste of time, it sure would save some $$$ by skipping that process.

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af2
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On a 4" bore .040 is a good quench/squish.
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 1:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

af2 wrote:
On a 4" bore .040 is a good quench/squish.


so i would need a .019 thick head gasket to avoid decking ?

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squeeezer
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 2:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

.015 steel shim











since you like the chebby stuff mixed in with the olds stuff Laughing
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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like to run my race motor with a minimum of .052 between the piston and the head and it usually ends up being .060 because the rods come shorter than ordered. I achieve this with the piston .007 in the hole, and I measured a compressed Fel Pro head gasket at .045 (the blue ones for a 4.630 bore) I have tried to get away with less, and the pistons leave witness marks on the heads. The piston to wall is .006-.007 and the skirt is very short which has the potential to rock more at TDC. You cant run a piston of this diameter any tighter in my opinion, and I like .0015 to a max of .002 on the rods and mains. I have a theory that to much bearing clearance not only gives poor oil control, but worse is the engine is actually pounding itself apart from movement within the bearings. I also run 5-30 synthetic because the control and pressure are really good at these tolerances. Also synthetic oil has way higher octane than petroleum based oil which helps reduce the potential for detonation from the oil that gets into the combustion chambers past the rings or guides. Nitrous engines die even faster from oil contamination(petroleum based) in the chambers. Guys will think they have a safe tune up as far as ignition timing and still burn up pistons and never know why. It is because of oil detonation which doesnt care where the timing is set. It is just going to cause hot spots, detonation and burn pistons.
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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 3:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to answer your question. Me personally I would not deck it. You are on the safe side of close enough with what you have. Save your money for nitrous and plugs.
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clay
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Also synthetic oil has way higher octane than petroleum based oil which helps reduce the potential for detonation from the oil that gets into the combustion chambers past the rings or guides.

Very interesting. Never thought about there being an octane difference between the two. Learned something new - I love it! Clay

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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good info Cool .
the bearing clearances are too tight for an Olds unless you have Chevy journals. they simply wont live that tight.

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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is the main journal diameter on the olds. I run stock BB chevy mains, and small block rod (2.100) I am thinking of grinding some more stroke into one of my cranks, and going to 2.000 rods.
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

on my 455, the mains are 3" and the rods are 2.5".
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Knarley Darley
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did not realize they were so beefy. Are you going to have to change your name to 9secET after using the Chevy parts? Laughing
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