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200R4

 
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longroof
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Joined: 07 Aug 2003
Posts: 2
Location: San Jose, CA
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2003 5:08 pm    Post subject: 200R4 Reply with quote

I have a 66 El Camino with a 350/350 combo. Motors pretty mild 9 to 1, GM HOT cam, Vortec heads, ect... Lately Ive been thinking of swapping in a 200 for mainly fuel efficiency reasons (its my daily driver). I havent found to many sites out there that cover the swap in any detail. Mainly what Im wondering is:

Question #1: What to use for the lock up switch, Ive been looking at the B&M adjustable unit, any pros, cons, input?

Question #2: I know that the driveshaft should work, but what about the crossmember? Will I have to fab one? Will the stock crossmember work or is their someone out there that sells a bolt in piece?

Question #3: Anything I should do to the trans. while Im getting it built? The builder is going to put in a 700 hub(?) in it to add beef already, any other recomendations?

Thanks in advance for the input.
CK

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67 Vista Cruiser
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2003 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a reply I sent to another member concerning the swap.

You will love the 200r4. Ran one for years behind several engines. I built it myself and here is what I had in it. There is a local transmission supply company called Cadco and this is where I got all of my parts. I put in a basic rebuild kit with standard clutches and steels, standard band, Grand National servo, a 10 vane upgrade kit, hardened stator support shaft (most factory ones weren't), and a hardened input drum (factory ones weren't). These parts were roughly $150 (been about 3 years, so I'm not exaclty sure, but this is close). The shift kit you have to have is made by Transgo, and by the price, this is probably what you are looking at. Tried a B&M before Transgo, and there is no comparison. I didn't get any particular model transmission, but I did cut down the spacer rings between the piston and pressure plate to get the maximum number of clutches in each pack. This is a must in the forward and direct drums. Had a 10" non lock up converter with about 3000-3200 stall. If you run a non lock up converter there is a valve you will have to change in the pump to provide circulation through the cooler. Ran this behind a decent 350 with nitrous for a while, then the same 350 with a Procharger until I got greedy and puked it. Next came a 383 with a Procharger, then the same 383 with nitrous so I woundn't puke it. On Street tires, there wasn't a problem, but with slicks, all shifts would get kinda spongy. This was in a 3700 lb car running high 10's, so in a street car situation you shouldn't have any problems. It will be great with a 4.11 gear and will be a tire burner. It has a 2.75 low, second is different, but I can't remember exactly what it is (1.57 I think), direct third of course, and a 0.7 overdrive. They are a pretty tough transmission, and will bolt right in place of the 350 with the same driveshaft. Use a crossmember for a 400 if one was offered in your car. I finally had to go to a 400 and I sure do miss my overdrive. Good luck.

As far as the lockup, I tried the simple B&M kit with a vacuum switch and didn't like it. Summit lists one that looks like it uses a speed transducer installed in the speedometer cable that I think would work much better. I think your El Camino has a full frame and you may be able to slide the cross member back far enough. If not, find a crossmember for a 400. It will be very close. (Within 1/2 hole) The transmission mount off of the 350 will work. If you need any more info, let me know. Clay
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longroof
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Location: San Jose, CA
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 12, 2003 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info.

CK

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