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9" ford setup

 
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MufflerBearings69
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
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25364.28 points


1968 Ford Galaxy

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 3:43 pm    Post subject: 9" ford setup Reply with quote

So far I have only read what the 2 ford factory manuals say, but here is what I need to sort out-

The preload is set by case spread in these manuals, they use a dial indicator to measure how far the 2 caps are spread apart by the final tightening of the right side adjuster nut. Is there another way without all the fancy dial indicator base and all?

I would think by now with the thousands of 9" users out there that someone has found an easier but accurate method.

Also, does anyone own any good books on this stuff? If so, titles or ISBN numbers would be awesome.

Thanks again guys!
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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you know how much preload is required, then you can translate that into how much to turn an adjusting nut. You will need to figure out the pitch of the thread on the adjusting nuts (threads per inch). 1 divided by the threads per inch will give you the total travel for 1 turn of the adjusting nut. Then calculating the portion of a turn to get preload is a ratio / proportion calculation. There was a rule of thumb I wish I could remember - something like snug it up and then go two or three holes on the nut - not sure though. Clay
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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Location: Houston,Texas
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 10:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

after doing two Dodge rearends last week, im wondering just how much preload on the carrier side bearings you really need. theres obviously a considerable ammount on the GM diffs because its quite snug getting the carrier and shims back into the housing. the Dodge however, is like a GM housing with Ford adjusting nuts inside of it. theres only a small hole to adjust so putting a lot of preload on the bearings is impossible. no, Dodge doesnt use some special bearings requiring less preload. they obviously dont need a lot. when i set up a diff with adjuster nuts instead of shims, i just put them as tight as i can get them by hand (no cheater pipes or hammers just hand tight). no fancy special tools, just tight. the pinion bearing preload and ring gear backlash is a different story all together.
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Big Dave
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Preload compensates for gear wear. If your gear gets noisy you could drop the center section and hand tighten it again to remove any play. Theoretically a Hotchkiss rear end is easy to remove and swap because of this bolt in bolt out. It has been my experience that no one has a complete center section set up to swap ratios for street and drags, and once set up it stays that way for life. Between the extra frictional loses and the fact that the one gear ratio you have stays there forever, I will take a Dana 60 over a FORD nine inch any day.

Big Dave
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MufflerBearings69
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Joined: 22 Jul 2007
Posts: 746

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1968 Ford Galaxy

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2008 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

clay wrote:
If you know how much preload is required, then you can translate that into how much to turn an adjusting nut. You will need to figure out the pitch of the thread on the adjusting nuts (threads per inch). 1 divided by the threads per inch will give you the total travel for 1 turn of the adjusting nut. Then calculating the portion of a turn to get preload is a ratio / proportion calculation. There was a rule of thumb I wish I could remember - something like snug it up and then go two or three holes on the nut - not sure though. Clay


For some reason this didn't "click" the first time I read it, I see now what you mean... distance traveled vs. thread pitch... could be a simple way to get very close...

According to the FSM, the preload sets the gear lash. Says to run the left side adjuster the whole wya in until the gears have as close to zero lash as possible, then push it back this given distance...
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