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what u-joint ?
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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Location: Houston,Texas
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

af2 wrote:
Is it possible to have the drive shaft cut and the 1350 end welded on so you don't have a problem later matching U-Joints? I have done plenty to say it is cake!
I would go that route to save the pain on explaining to a side ways baseball cap pants down to you're knees tuner at NAPA!


Big Dave wrote:
Just a thought, but wouldn't you want 1350 joints at every point in tour drive shaft. It doesn't make much sense to use a U-joint which on one side will handle only 70% of the stress of the other. You can have a drive shaft made up with all 1350 (or go hog wild and install 1370's like the rock crawlers do).



thats what was in the back of my mind, i just needed a nudge in the right direction.

BTW, i did find the conversion u-joints at Oreillys but they werent high strength pieces. probably spit the driveshaft out the first time the car hooked up. thanks again everyone thumbsup

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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William Jones
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1971 Ford Mustang

PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 10:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree get the 1350's all the way around. I was running 1310 to 1350 conversion joint and it broke on my second time run in a race that I paid $150 dollars to race in. I spent 3 hours trying to find a replacement got it back together to buy back into the second round and then got my butt handed to me. Since I have changed to the 1350's I haven't had any issues plus I keep two spares just in case. LOL
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beersngars
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1948 Chevrolet Coupe

PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

af2 wrote:
Is it possible to have the drive shaft cut and the 1350 end welded on so you don't have a problem later matching U-Joints? I have done plenty to say it is cake!
I would go that route to save the pain on explaining to a side ways baseball cap pants down to you're knees tuner at NAPA!


Laughing Laughing Laughing I think they are over at Autozone. The old guys at NAPA need to get some peice and quiet.
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive decided, for now, to get one of the conversion u-joints from Oreillys just so i can get the car rolling. i have a list of things that need to be done before the car will be "race ready" so i might as well add a better driveshaft to the list. http://www.chassisengineering.com/shopDetails.asp?CatId=10&SubCatId=19&ProductId=1188
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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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Paul P
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1971 Chevrolet Chevelle

PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

10 sec,
Depending on the length you need that might not be the right one for your car. My 55 1/4" C-C 3" Mark Williams Moly drive shaft is only rated to 5400rpm critical speed.I need to go 4" alum or Carbon fiber but I have not decided yet.
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GrandSportC3
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1968 Chevrolet Corvette

PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big Dave wrote:
Just a thought, but wouldn't you want 1350 joints at every point in tour drive shaft. It doesn't make much sense to use a U-joint which on one side will handle only 70% of the stress of the other. You can have a drive shaft made up with all 1350 (or go hog wild and install 1370's like the rock crawlers do).

Big Dave


Exactly!! It makes no sense to use different size joints as it's as strong as it's weakest link!!
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks Paul. i had forgotten about critical speed. i need to do some more research.

Paul P wrote:
Mark Williams makes some nice pieces out of 4130 tubing and other materials. looks like critical speed is the key.
See link different materials have different critical speeds/rpms

http://www.markwilliams.com/driveshafts.aspx

My shaft appears to be the wrong one for my application looking at the chart I'm contacting them to see what they think.

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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2007 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

some interesting driveshaft info if anyone feels like reading (PDF)
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF

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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
some interesting driveshaft info if anyone feels like reading (PDF)
http://www2.dana.com/pdf/J3311-1-HVTSS.PDF


That was what I was looking for to explain the offsets. There is so much info on the web you have a hell of a time remembering where you found it!
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Aerosmith
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 11:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Probably too late, but the GM to 9" conversion joint is part # 240-0447 at NAPA and the retail price is $31.49.
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10sec.et
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1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aerosmith wrote:
Probably too late, but the GM to 9" conversion joint is part # 240-0447 at NAPA and the retail price is $31.49.


i do have one by now but the part number may come in handy for someone else thumbsup .

you havent posted in a while... welcome back.

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Aerosmith
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the welcome back. No I haven't posted in a while, haven't even lurked here in a while. Been caught up in life. Weather's been good here and I've had some money to spend on the ride so I've not spent much time online unless it was sourcing parts or looking for tech info. I finally made it back to the track after almost 2 years and it took 4 runs to get back in the groove and back close to the times I ran before..only to discover the next day that my secondaries didn't open(again) and my power valve was bad. So we'll see what happens this week...carb fixed, slicks bolted to the new Moser 9", adj torque arm, drag struts, trick front springs, new fiberglass hood, lost the front sway bar...I need that 11 second slip to get my motivation going.
Here's a link to the car at test n tune 2 weeks ago..link is good until 7/27..track photographer's web site.

http://www.photoreflect.com/pr3/OrderPage.aspx?pi=0F2W009W000003&po=3&c=
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af2
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1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad you're back! For some reason we never lose the drive!
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