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Nitrous?

 
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Joined: 30 May 2002
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64686.48 points


1979 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 7:43 pm    Post subject: Nitrous? Reply with quote

I'm thinking about running a dry shot of nitrous on the LS1. I was planning to use the NOS cheater system from the 79Z using the bottle, brackets, line, and nitrous solenoid. I will need to buy a fogger nozzle, any suggestions which one to buy? I have two nitrous solenoids, one from a powershot kit and one from a cheater kit. Which one should I run? The smaller one or the bigger one? I was planning on using the smaller one since I don't plan on spraying too much. But I'm open to suggestions. I do not have a bottle heater but considering getting one, are they worth the money for the small shot I'm running?

I'm planning to mount the nozzle in the intake track spraying directly into the MAF and let the computer spray the extra fuel based on the MAF input. From what I've read about 3 - 5 inches away is good placement, and suggestions?

The car already has 42LB injectors so I should be safe to spray 100 - 125 shot based on injector size. The only thing I need to do is upgrade the fuel pump. Which is the works since the stocker is starting to get a little loud.

To control the nitrous I can use the HPTuners kit which has aux inputs and outputs. I would simply wire an arming switch which is run to the controller. I can then program the controller to almost anything I want before it activates the nitrous relay for the soleniod.

I was thinking it would engage when the following is true:
Arming switch turned on
RPM greater than 3500
TPS = 100%
Trans gear 2 or 3

Have it disengage when
Arming switch off
RPM greater than 6100 (It's set to shift at 6400)
TPS less than 100%
A/F ratio numerically greater than 13:1 (from wideband input).

The cool thing is I can pick any sensor(s) the car has to use as criteria to use for engaging or disengage the nitrous. Any suggestions as what to other inputs to use?

I'm hoping this in conjunction with the headers and y-pipe the car will break into the 10's provided the traction gods are on my side.

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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3455
Location: Houston,Texas
346018.46 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

if youre running fuel to the nozzle, isnt that actually a "wet" shot ?

i highly recommend a bottle heater to keep pressure stable. nothing more aggravating than to come out of the gate with a killer 60' and the run go to sh!t because bottle pressure dropped too low Head Bang .

i havent played with any EFI setups on spray but the last LS1 i saw, was real similar to my setup with a WOT switch, and a window switch to shut off the nitrous before you hit the limiter. it was also using the factory pump and taking the fuel supply for the nitrous right off of the schrader port on the fuel rail.

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1979 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 11:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
if youre running fuel to the nozzle, isnt that actually a "wet" shot ?

The nozzle will only be for nitrous, no fuel. So it's a dry shot.

Any suggestions as to which bottle heater to use?

The only wet shot system I'd run on an LS motor would be a direct port fogger for each cylinder. With all the turns in the manifold the fuel will most likely puddle against the manifold not distributing the fuel evenly.

Since I have the HPTuners with auxiliary inputs and outputs I plan to use it. I'll put a light on the dash to see when the nitrous will engage and disengage as a dry run test. That way I can make sure the computer will control the solenoid according to plan.

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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3455
Location: Houston,Texas
346018.46 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

good point on the fuel puddling. kinda makes me wonder why they did that on the one i saw Confused .

i have one similar to this.... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NOS-14160NOS/. it works well except for cold weather. its good down to about 45 degrees ambient temp. lower than that it has trouble keeping up especially if you get tied up in the staging lanes. a blanket would be a good addition if you race in cold temps. ive also heard of guys using waterbed heaters. since my Olds is out for a while, were going to put nitrous on a buddys Camaro (1994 LT1). im going to fab up a quick release bottle bracket so i can pull it out and put the bottle in the floor of the truck and heat it up. the in-car heater will just be there to keep pressure up while sitting in the staging lanes.

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
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Location: South Carolina
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1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wouldn't think nozzle selection would make any real difference especially with a dry shot. I would think the later model nozzles may do a little better job of atomizing the fuel. Most likely the only thing you want is a 90* nozzle like the Fogger2. However if you have to buy a nozzle anyway, just get the nozzle they run on a dry system anyway. Absolutely run a bottle heater. We've tried to warm the bottle under the hood of the tow vehicle and it's a pain if something happens while you're in staging and it's cooling off the whole time (not to metion the one we forgot for a little too long and it blew the popoff Embarassed ). I ran the NOS heater but didn't like the thermostat that comes with it. It regulates to 85* I think, and that's fine for a full bottle, but for half a bottle you need a little more heat. My buddy runs a Compucar (maybe, not postive) heater that used a pressure transducer to regulate the heater - in my opinion a much better setup - just remember to turn the valve on when you turn the heater on. It doesn't really matter which solenoid - whichever one has the least use. I've had a problem with NOS solenoids on a plate system especially with the seat in the nitrous solenoid. Fuel vapor seems to break down the rubber. I don't think this is a problem with a fogger style system when the solenoid is farther from the plenum. Pull it apart and have a look at the seat to be sure. It will sort of "pucker" up first and actually seems to start to reduce nitrous flow (it doesn't really move the pintle very far at all) first then it will start to come apart. Have never had one leak though - even if they looked bad. Cost of rebuild kits are about the same. I'm jealous of your control system - that's a cool setup. The only thing is you aren't using it in low gear Laughing . Get some slicks and spray that thing from home Twisted Evil . Clay
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Skunkworkx
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Location: Harford Co. Maryland
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1968 Chevrolet Camaro

PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A friend had an '02 Z-28 and with a programer,a bunch of bolt-ons was running mid-low 12's... a 100 dry shot he went 11.57.

His was just a push button, no rpm or DIP switchs.

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