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Coil Springs

 
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1970z28camaro
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Joined: 28 Jul 2007
Posts: 15

720.10 points



PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 5:47 pm    Post subject: Coil Springs Reply with quote

Can someone tell me how I can change my current coils springs for my 1970 with the new pair that I just bought? Is it as simple as using 2 4-ton jacks and a friend? Please let me know.
Very Happy
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5579
Location: grassvalley, ca
71896.24 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 7:52 pm    Post subject: Re: Coil Springs Reply with quote

1970z28camaro wrote:
Can someone tell me how I can change my current coils springs for my 1970 with the new pair that I just bought? Is it as simple as using 2 4-ton jacks and a friend? Please let me know.
Very Happy


Jack it up then put a stand under the the right or left side you are changing. With tire off, jack the lower Arm to relieve spring preasure and take the lower ball joint nut off then separate the ball joint from the spindle. I use a big hammer to hit the spindle so I don't ruin the boot on the ball joint. Lower the jack pull the spring and install the new one. DON'T BE IN FRONT OF THE SPRING AT ANY TIME WHEN REPLACING!!!!!!!!!!!!
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3483
Location: Houston,Texas
347040.52 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Coil Springs Reply with quote

af2 wrote:
take the lower ball joint nut off then separate the ball joint from the spindle. I use a big hammer to hit the spindle DON'T BE IN FRONT OF THE SPRING AT ANY TIME WHEN REPLACING!!!!!!!!!!!!



dont take the nut completely off until AFTER you break the ball joint free with the hammer. you will end up with a lot of fast moving parts if you do.


coil spring compressors arent exactly a big help either.....

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i144/10sec_et/ouch.jpg

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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af2
Member


Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5579
Location: grassvalley, ca
71896.24 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Coil Springs Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
af2 wrote:
take the lower ball joint nut off then separate the ball joint from the spindle. I use a big hammer to hit the spindle DON'T BE IN FRONT OF THE SPRING AT ANY TIME WHEN REPLACING!!!!!!!!!!!!



dont take the nut completely off until AFTER you break the ball joint free with the hammer. you will end up with a lot of fast moving parts if you do.


coil spring compressors arent exactly a big help either.....

http://i71.photobucket.com/albums/i144/10sec_et/ouch.jpg


Geese 10, you didn't quote me saying have a jack under the A arm when doing that!
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10sec.et
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Joined: 29 Mar 2006
Posts: 3483
Location: Houston,Texas
347040.52 points


1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 10:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Coil Springs Reply with quote

af2 wrote:
Geese 10, you didn't quote me saying have a jack under the A arm when doing that!



reason i didnt was because i launched a jack out from under the car that way Embarassed . not trying to make you look bad. im just one of those people that if its going to happen, its going to happen to me. just be safe.

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af2 wrote:
It seems we can look at our magical Balls and come up with a fix?

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clay
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Joined: 24 Nov 2002
Posts: 3209
Location: South Carolina
318129.23 points


1972 Chevrolet Nova

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If for some reason the springs are too long to get out - probably not the case - or back in as can be the case with Moroso trick springs - by swinging the control arm down there is another safety method if you have to take the control arm completely loose. I ran a piece of threaded rod though where the shock was with large washers and nuts. Jack it a little bit, then run the nuts up tight by hand then jack some more and repeat. It's not an absolute solid lock, but it won't let things move very far at all. The first time is kinda scary, but once you learn where to be and see what everything does, it isn't that bad - just be safe and don't hurry. Clay
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af2
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Joined: 01 Sep 2003
Posts: 5579
Location: grassvalley, ca
71896.24 points


1933 Willys Coupe

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2007 11:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Coil Springs Reply with quote

10sec.et wrote:
af2 wrote:
Geese 10, you didn't quote me saying have a jack under the A arm when doing that!



reason i didnt was because i launched a jack out from under the car that way Embarassed . not trying to make you look bad. im just one of those people that if its going to happen, its going to happen to me. just be safe.



Totally agree!!!!!!!!
Be safe period!!!!!!!!!!!
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Big Dave
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Joined: 04 Dec 2005
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Location: Tampa Florida
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a car transport trailer use that as your work place. Chain the sub frame to the trailer and use a bottle jack under the lower A-frame. I agree with 10; leave the castle nut on the ball joint and smack the nut to loosen everything up. It will pop to the end of the ball joint stud and stop at the nut (only if it has enough threads to hold it, so do not take the nut all the way off). Then you can pressurize the bottle jack and remove the ball joint nut by hand and carefully lower the A-frame down enough to get the spring out. With the car chained to the trailer frame it will not go anywhere (I have seen jacks lift the front end off the ground with out compressing the spring enough to safely get it out).

Don't have a trailer: Plan B

Use an engine hoist to replace the bottle jack. Once again chain the sub frame to the lower leg of the engine hoist. Fit a stout 1/2" chain onto the clevis of the engine stand and attach the two ends of the chain to each side of the lower A-frame. Repeat the process of loosening and banging the nut. Now you can pick up or lower the A-frame as needed using the engine hoist. With the car chained to the hoist it is not going any where. You have to carefull of the length of your sling as the hoist can not contact the fender of the car.

I prefer the trailer method because it gets me off the ground and puts the spindle about chest height for me so it is easy to work with. With me sitting on the ground car on the trailer I do not have to be hunched over all the time, so it is easier on the back. I have rebuilt many front ends this way on Nova's Chevelles and numerous Camaro's (even my Dad's 1958 Biscayne) and it worked out great. If you see yourself doing a lot of front end rebuilds it is worth buying a trailer just for this reason alone.

Big Dave
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